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Big John RARE R009 15.5oz unsanforized selvedge denim
Please note, this is a raw/unwashed denim and will shrink after washing. Please refer to the size guide for before/after measurements.
The 3rd generation of "RARE".
For the "RARE" collection, Big John worked with the most experienced craftsmen in Japan on each step of the production (spinning, dyeing, weaving, and sewing) to pursue the highest quality jeans they could create in Japan.
The denim on the R009 is nicknamed the BIG7055, this 15.5 oz unsanforised denim was literally built from the ground up for the RARE project. The cotton is a carefully blended mix of two different American staples, made into yarn threads by Asahi Boseki KK, a yarn spinning specialist in Osaka. Everything from the twist of the yarn to the shape of the slub has been customised, with a focus on smoothness and sturdiness.
The finished warp yarn is then sent onto Sakamoto Denim for indigo dyeing. There is a Sakamoto Ransei stamp on the pocket cloth of these jeans, translating to “Sakamoto indigo saint” in Japanese, the honorific given to Yasushi Sakamoto, the former president of the company and a legendary master of the indigo who had initially developed the synthindigo dye to be used for the third generation RARE denim products.
The yarns are woven at Shinya Mills, very slowly with minimal tension into denim on a single Sakamoto narrow shuttle loom from the 1950s. A special note about the weaving of this BIG7055 denim is that it was designed to be ‘Wrench Proof’, woven in such a way that the denim does not distort after shrink-to-fit or a wash in the washing machine.
The "RARE" collection is unsanforized, and will shrink approx 9% over the first 2 washes.
Please refer to the fit guide image (last product image) for detailed measurements of before and after wash measurements.
Slim tapered silhouette
Unsanforized 15.5 oz RANSEI* denim *Japanese for "Master of Indigo"
Indigo-dyed deer leather patch
Steel buttons & rivets
Double belt loop
Single stitch hem for strength
Hidden polyester stitching for reinforcement
35" inseam RAW / 32.3" inseam after wash
Made in Japan
We are proud to be one of the only stockists of Big John in the UK.
Big John is a brand of tradition and innovation. It has been over 70 years since we started our business as a small sewing factory in Kojima, Okayama, now known as the denim capital of Japan. We manufactured the first made-in-Japan jeans in 1965, and developed the first Japanese denim fabric in 1972. Since then, we have continued to push boundaries in the world of denim. Our mission as the pioneer of Japanese Denim is to honor the history and lead the growth of this local industry. Today, Big John's collection offers a full range of wardrobe. With Japanese design, Japanese fabric, and Japanese production as the core elements of our brand, we continue to pursue uncompromised quality and distinguished style in each piece of our clothing.
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Choose full refund including delivery cost, exchange or store credit.
If you wish to return your order, we offer a full refund, exchange or store credit if it is sent back in brand new, resaleable condition (including all tags and product packaging) within 30 days.
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What Is Selvedge Denim?
Originally the denim cloth used to make jeans was produced on shuttle looms. These produced a tightly woven cloth by passing a continuous thread backwards and forwards. The resulting fabric was narrow and had finished edges or self-edges, hence the term selvedge. This fabric was relatively costly and slow to produce as were the jeans fashioned from it. When the demand for jeans rose dramatically in the latter half of the 20th century production methods were inevitably altered to create cheaper fabrics that could be produced in higher volumes. Shuttle looms were abandoned in favour of projectile looms which were quicker, which produced wider cloth and which did not use continuous threads. Denim now had unfinished edges with a frayed appearance.
Selvedge Denim Care
Here at JEANSTORE we have a few tips on how you can keep your selvedge denim looking its best - by following these simple instructions you can ensure your jeans last longer, retain their shape and colour, and reduce your environmental impact too.
- First and foremost, always follow the care instructions on the inside label of your jeans. Different jeans will have different recommendations, and these can vary depending on the nature of the fabric and the dye, amongst other things.
- To soak or not to soak? It's personal preference, but with raw/unwashed/rigid denim there will be a lot of dye on the fabric that will bleed at first. You can soak your jeans inside out in warm water for 2 hours and hang dry before first wash to get rid of some of the dye, and make them feel less stiff/starchy. Others just put them straight on and don't care if their legs and shoes end up blue!
- 'Breaking them in'. Two things to consider - is the denim raw or pre-washed? If washed, there won't be much 'breaking in' - that bit has been done for you.
For raw and rigid denim, the general consensus is to wear the jeans for as long as possible before the first wash. Nudie Jeans Co. recommends wearing your raw denim for 6 months without washing. It's not compulsory, but the longer you wear them, the better they'll fit, and the better they'll fade.
Secondly, is the denim sanforized (pre-shrunk) or unsanforized (shrink-to-fit)? Most selvedge denim we stock - even if raw/rigid - will be pre-shrunk to eliminate unexpected sizing changes. This means you can generally trust the size guide. If buying unsanforized denim, there's always an element of risk, so please ensure you follow the size guide and the washing instructions carefully! With shrink-to-fit jeans, they really can become the best denim you've ever owned as they mould to your body shape. You'll also get the most natural fades.
- Try and wash your jeans once every 10 wears at most. Sometimes this just isn't possible, but it's a good guide to follow. Every wash puts strain on the fibres and 'wears' them, so the less you wash your jeans, the longer they'll last. We always recommend hand-washing selvedge denim.
- Always wash your jeans inside out. This reduces dye/colour loss. If using a washing machine, keep the load minimal - if your jeans are too creased, the dye may fade more heavily along creases, causing streaky lines on your jeans.
- If possible, always hand wash. It's not a deal-breaker, but it is much gentler on the fabric and you'll find your jeans fade more 'naturally'. If using a washing machine, keep the heat low and use a slower cycle. With raw denim, ensure you wash them separately for the first 5 washes, as the dye will bleed and transfer to other garments. Also be careful when sitting on light coloured surfaces or wearing white shoes.
- Use natural detergents where possible. You don't want those nasty chemicals damaging your jeans, or the environment.
- Don't tumble dry! Well, you can (we do, sometimes) but results can vary. If you're in a rush and need to tumble your jeans, ensure you keep the heat low. Excessive tumble drying can change the size/shape/fit of your jeans, and they'll often feel tighter when they come out. This isn't always a problem with stretch jeans, as after several wears they can feel a bit loose. Often any changes in your denim as a result of tumble drying are a result of the machine - not the denim.
With selvedge denim, we always recommend hang-drying rather than a tumble dryer.
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Big John selvedge denim is 100% woven in Japan. Big John products will fade beautifully. You may forget the memories of your many travels, but the fading of your jeans will remain as a work of art.
As the oldest Japanese jeans brand, Big John Jeans is proud to uphold the same traditions and values for over eighty years.
All sizing information is for guide purposes only.
Where possible we provide individual product size guides. If these aren't available we provide a generic brand size guide. Individual garments may differ from these measurements and we cannot guarantee the item you receive will match these measurements exactly.
Many brands also have a level of tolerance in size differences between the same item - this is usually 0.5 inches.
If no size guide is shown below, it means there is not one available at present for this item and it will be added if/when it becomes available.