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Studio D'Artisan SP-086 45th Anniversary 'Ishikawadai' 13oz Tapered Selvedge Mens Jeans
Colour : Indigo Onewash
£ 219.00
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Free delivery over £ 100 | Free UK exchanges
Description
The "Ishikawadai" series is an extraordinary innovation that transports us back to 1953, when it was developed by Ishikawa Seisakujo. This Japanese ring spinning machine, created by the same company, is considered the oldest still in operation today. Despite being a vintage piece, it possesses distinctive features that make it a treasured artifact in the realm of denim manufacturing.
In contrast to modern ring spinning machines, the "Ishikawadai" operates at a notably slower speed—about one-third that of its contemporary counterparts. This reduced speed brings intriguing benefits; it applies minimal stress to the cotton fibres, allowing the natural qualities of the cotton to emerge. The result is a fabric with a raw, uneven texture reminiscent of hand-spun cotton, something nearly impossible to replicate with automated machines. The intentional irregularity in the fabric lends it an authentic, almost vintage look, distinguishing it from the uniformity typical of mass-produced textiles.
The warp threads, dyed in indigo, embrace the cotton's unique traits without requiring the standard refinement processes, preserving the cotton's special qualities. Moreover, the denim pays tribute to the classic styles of 1953 by utilising traditional, low-tech methods throughout its production.
Products made from "Ishikawadai" denim offer a one-of-a-kind experience. With each wear, they evolve, gathering stories and character similar to vintage denim from earlier times. These items are not merely clothing; they are living, transforming testaments to past artistry and craftsmanship. They celebrate history while ensuring its continuity with every generation of wearers.
13oz "Ishikawadai" selvedge denim
100% cotton
Tapered fit
Button fly
SDA-branded hardware
Engraved copper male/female rivets
Heavy duck canvas pocket bags
Fifth pocket selvedge detail
SDA original back pocket stitch
SDA original leather waistband patch
Made in Japan
Ships with original "Ishikawadai" tote bag.
Size Guide
Delivery
UK Standard Delivery: Free over £100 / £3.99 under £100
2-3 working days / Royal Mail Tracked 48
UK Premium Delivery: £4.99
1-2 working days / Royal Mail Tracked 24
UK Next Day Delivery: £6.99
Next working day (order before 3pm Mon-Fri exc. bank holidays) / DPD Next Day
International Delivery: Price calculated at checkout
Delivery from 2 days - DPD Direct / DPD Classic - Taxes & Duties Paid
(Next day delivery not available to some postcodes - see Delivery page for exclusions)
We are currently only able to deliver to the following countries:
United Kingdom inc. Northern Ireland, Jersey, Guernsey, Isle Of Man
European Union exc. Malta & Cyprus
USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, Monaco
Returns
30-day no-fuss returns.
Free unlimited UK exchanges.
Choose full refund including delivery cost, exchange or store credit.
If you wish to return your order, we offer a full refund, exchange or store credit if it is sent back in brand new, resaleable condition (including all tags and product packaging) within 30 days.
Exchanges in the UK are free and unlimited. For refunds, a £2.99 return label fee will be deducted from the refund. Returns for store credit are also free.
Next-day and international delivery costs cannot be refunded.
Read our full returns policy here.
What Is Selvedge Denim?
Originally the denim cloth used to make jeans was produced on shuttle looms. These produced a tightly woven cloth by passing a continuous thread backwards and forwards. The resulting fabric was narrow and had finished edges or self-edges, hence the term selvedge. This fabric was relatively costly and slow to produce as were the jeans fashioned from it. When the demand for jeans rose dramatically in the latter half of the 20th century production methods were inevitably altered to create cheaper fabrics that could be produced in higher volumes. Shuttle looms were abandoned in favour of projectile looms which were quicker, which produced wider cloth and which did not use continuous threads. Denim now had unfinished edges with a frayed appearance.
Continue reading...
Selvedge Denim Care
Here at JEANSTORE we have a few tips on how you can keep your selvedge denim looking its best - by following these simple instructions you can ensure your jeans last longer, retain their shape and colour, and reduce your environmental impact too.
- First and foremost, always follow the care instructions on the inside label of your jeans. Different jeans will have different recommendations, and these can vary depending on the nature of the fabric and the dye, amongst other things.
- To soak or not to soak? It's personal preference, but with raw/unwashed/rigid denim there will be a lot of dye on the fabric that will bleed at first. You can soak your jeans inside out in warm water for 2 hours and hang dry before first wash to get rid of some of the dye, and make them feel less stiff/starchy. Others just put them straight on and don't care if their legs and shoes end up blue!
- 'Breaking them in'. Two things to consider - is the denim raw or pre-washed? If washed, there won't be much 'breaking in' - that bit has been done for you.
For raw and rigid denim, the general consensus is to wear the jeans for as long as possible before the first wash. Nudie Jeans Co. recommends wearing your raw denim for 6 months without washing. It's not compulsory, but the longer you wear them, the better they'll fit, and the better they'll fade.
Secondly, is the denim sanforized (pre-shrunk) or unsanforized (shrink-to-fit)? Most selvedge denim we stock - even if raw/rigid - will be pre-shrunk to eliminate unexpected sizing changes. This means you can generally trust the size guide. If buying unsanforized denim, there's always an element of risk, so please ensure you follow the size guide and the washing instructions carefully! With shrink-to-fit jeans, they really can become the best denim you've ever owned as they mould to your body shape. You'll also get the most natural fades. - Try and wash your jeans once every 10 wears at most. Sometimes this just isn't possible, but it's a good guide to follow. Every wash puts strain on the fibres and 'wears' them, so the less you wash your jeans, the longer they'll last. We always recommend hand-washing selvedge denim.
- Always wash your jeans inside out. This reduces dye/colour loss. If using a washing machine, keep the load minimal - if your jeans are too creased, the dye may fade more heavily along creases, causing streaky lines on your jeans.
- If possible, always hand wash. It's not a deal-breaker, but it is much gentler on the fabric and you'll find your jeans fade more 'naturally'. If using a washing machine, keep the heat low and use a slower cycle. With raw denim, ensure you wash them separately for the first 5 washes, as the dye will bleed and transfer to other garments. Also be careful when sitting on light coloured surfaces or wearing white shoes.
- Use natural detergents where possible. You don't want those nasty chemicals damaging your jeans, or the environment.
- Don't tumble dry! Well, you can (we do, sometimes) but results can vary. If you're in a rush and need to tumble your jeans, ensure you keep the heat low. Excessive tumble drying can change the size/shape/fit of your jeans, and they'll often feel tighter when they come out. This isn't always a problem with stretch jeans, as after several wears they can feel a bit loose. Often any changes in your denim as a result of tumble drying are a result of the machine - not the denim.
With selvedge denim, we always recommend hang-drying rather than a tumble dryer.
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Features
Studio D'Artisan.
This is where is all began. The first of the legendary 'Osaka 5', Studio D'Artisan was founded in 1979 by Shigeharu Tagaki, a designer who had been learning his trade in France. Inspired by French workwear and especially the American jeans craze sweeping Japan in the late sixties and early seventies, Tagaki started reproducing vintage denim on old Toyada G-3 shuttle loom. Disappointed with the poor quality of mass-produced jeans which flooded the market in the 1980s, the company were soon making original denim goods, utilizing designs and productions techniques from the golden age of jeans.
It wouldn't be an overstatement to say that the company was one of the prime reasons for the explosion of interest in Japanese denim in the late nineties and early aughts. In fact, SDA claim that their flagship model 'DO-1' was the first raw selvedge jean produced, making it the granddaddy of Japanese quality denim.
All sizing information is for guide purposes only.
Where possible we provide individual product size guides. If these aren't
available we provide a generic brand size guide. Individual garments may
differ from these measurements and we cannot guarantee the item you receive
will match these measurements exactly.
Many brands also have a level of tolerance in size differences
between the same item - this is usually 0.5 inches.
If no size guide is shown below, it means there is not one available at
present for this item and it will be added if/when it becomes available.